Archive for September, 2009
The Legato Electric Guitar Update
Posted by admin in Uncategorized on September 28th, 2009
As I write this post, the Legato guitar is hanging up to dry. I sprayed on a quart of Nitrocellulose lacquer the other day and it will need to cure at least a week or two before polishing. Here is some video of me spraying on some gloss black lacquer onto the backside of the body.
My Homemade Tools For Building Electric Guitars
Posted by admin in General Electric Guitar Building on September 27th, 2009
When I first got into building electric guitars, I did so partly to save money. When I discovered how many specialized tools would be need, I found myself relying on my do-it-yourself instincts and made many of them myself. Here are some photos of my homemade guitar building tools along with a brief description of each:
This is my fret edger. I took a piece of Maple and ran it through my table saw in order to cut a 35° angle along one edge. Then, I attached a file to that edge with a couple of wood screws and washers. This tool allows me file the edges of my frets at a comfortable 35° angle.
Here is the bottom of my edger.
This is my binding guide. It attaches to my Dremel router base. This tool makes it easy to rout an accurate binding strip channel around the perimeter of a guitar body and headstock.
This tool gets chucked into my drill press and converts it into a cheap fret press.
This is my homemade fret wire bender. Simple, yet effective.
This is the other side of my fret wire bender. Insert the wire, turn the crank and presto, curved fret wire!
Here’s a close-up of the business end of my fret wire bender. Those are skateboard wheel bearings. I can move one set of the bearings up or down to control the degree of bending. The fret wire’s tang fits snuggly between the two big washers and when I turn the crank, the washers turn with it and draw the fret wire over the bearings.
I just finished building this tool. It’s a fretboard radius jig. As I push the router and it’s homemade base along the two dowels, I move it side to side in order to generate the radius. The fretboard will be attached to the board between the two dowels.
Here is the bottom of my radius jig. I clamp the long center section into my portable workbench. The short strip of wood at the far end is matched by another on the opposite side at the near end. These strips rest against the top of my workbench and keep it level while I tighten the clamps.
My next tool will be a buffing station made using a 3/4 hp motor and a double sided, belt driven mandrel.
What Your Momma Never Told You About Electric Guitar Pickups
Posted by admin in Uncategorized on September 26th, 2009
Isn’t it funny how complicated pickups seem to get when you are about to layout the cash for a set? With so many to choose from, the selection process can get tedious.
A few of days ago I wrote a post in this blog about some of the basics you’ll need to consider when choosing a set of pickups for your guitar. My goal was to keep it simple, however, I feel the need to go a bit deeper.
When you shop for pickups, you’ll notice how most manufactures rate their pickups in terms of DC resistance. Measured in Ohms, DC resistance give us an idea of how strong the current is passing through a pickup’s coil. The higher the number, the stronger the current. Therefore, a pickup rated at 16k Ohms is more powerful than a pickup rated at 10K Ohms. The reason pickup makers use this measurement is because it’s simple to do with a cheap, digital multi tester. However, the problem with this measurement is that it doesn’t tell you much about the tone of a pickup.
So, how do we measure tone? Is it even possible? I’ve posed this question to people who are experts at pickup design and the answers have been so complicated as to lead me to believe that it can only be done by ear. In the end, tone as we perceive it, is rather subjective. One could argue that there are measurements, which can describe a pickup’s tone in numbers, but what do these numbers mean? A well equipped pickup maker can list measurements for inductance, resonant peak and Q-factor just to name three, but they can only give you an idea of what the tone might sound like. Until you install the pickups, no one really can know exactly how they’ll sound.
When it comes to the tone of an electric guitar, most players and instrument builders have a hard time describing what they’re after. Often times we rely on vague explanations like “that Jimmy Page sound.” Unfortunately, this approach doesn’t tell us much since Jimmy’s sound is so varied. I might be thinking of Whole Lotta Love while someone else might be thinking Achille’s Last Stand. Therefore, it’s important to carefully analyze the tone you want. To do this, I recommend writing a description of what you’re after using words that are as precisely descriptive as possible. Don’t be surprised if this effort requires numerous rewrites as it can be difficult to find the right words to describe a certain tone. Here’s an example of how I would describe the first solo in Zeppelin’s Since I’ve Been Loving You:
Bright, cracking notes supported by a slightly warm bottom end.
It’s that simple. When writing a description of tone, forget about the effects, gain and amp settings. Instead, try to focus on the pickups alone. Keep in mind that the pickups generate the signal, the wood used in the guitar adds shape, the controls and cable have a slight impact, effects and amp settings manipulate the signal and the speaker presents it. With these factors in mind, try to back into the tone you hear by filtering out the presentation, manipulation, impact and shape. Concentrate, instead, on how the tone was generated at the pickup(s). Once you have a solid description of the tone you’re after, you can start a deeper exploration of the pickups that are available.
Start by taking a look at how the pickup you’re interested in was made. Find out what gauge of coil wire was used and how many times it was wrapped around the bobbin. In general, the thinner the wire, the more turns and vice versa for thicker wire. In most cases, this can be confirmed by checking the DC resistance. A high number will mean thinner wire, more turns and greater power output. However, it can also mean less tonal range. A low number will mean thicker wire, less turns and lower output. But as you might guess, this will result in a wider range of tone.
Also affecting tone is the type of magnet(s) used in the pickup. Alnico magnets contribute to a warmer tone while ceramic magnets attempt to boost the weak treble frequencies associated with high power pickups.
To gauge a pickups range of tone regardless of the wire and magnets, one must consider inductance and resonant peak. Inductance is stated in Henries and as the number gets larger, bass tones increase while the treble tones drop. Resonant peak is stated in Hertz and as that number gets larger, the tone gets brighter and clearer. In most cases, as the DC resistance number gets higher, the inductance increases while the resonant peak decreases. By exploring the relationship between DC resistance, inductance and resonant peak, one can compare the potential tone of many different types and brands of pickups.
Even with this information, it can still be a bit tough to accurately determine the tone of a pickup without installing it. It can take a lot of experience to know how these numbers will affect tone. However, knowing how these numbers affect tone can certainly help you to narrow your choices. In the end, I recommend buying your pickups from a manufacturer or retailer who will allow to exchange the pickups if you aren’t satisfied. And if a manufacturer or retailer can’t state the inductance or resonant peak numbers (many can’t do this because it requires special equipment and a robust mathematics education) then it’s back to relying on your ears.
The Wagner Control Spray Plus Part 1
Posted by admin in General Electric Guitar Building on September 18th, 2009
Here is part 1 of my review for the Wagner Control Spray Plus. For small projects around the house, you can’t beat it. I’m using it specifically to spray lacquer onto my custom made guitars. So far my initial tests have been positive.
The key to getting a good finish with this particular HVLP (high volume, low pressure) system, it to make sure you thin the material correctly. The instructions tell you how, but you may need to adjust the ratio of thinner to material to get a smooth flow. That’s why I like to use lacquer. If it goes on rough, a second coat will usually melt the first and smooth out the surface.
In a day or so, I’ll add more to this story along with some photos and video. Stay tuned!
How To Select An Electric Guitar Pickup
Posted by admin in General Electric Guitar Building on September 13th, 2009
I’ve always thought of electric guitar pickups as incredibly simple components. All they are is copper wire coils surrounding magnetic poles, right? For the most part, yes. However, as I’ve learned, they can be a lot more complicated, especially when it comes to dialing in certain tones. For example, the gauge of wire you use, it’s insulation material and the number of times it’s wrapped around the bobbin will have an impact. Another factor is the magnets that are available to choose from. The most common are the Alnico 2, 3, 4, 5 and 8 with the 5 being the most popular. For hard rock and heavy metal, ceramic mags are the norm.
What I’m getting at here is how important it is to know what’s inside that set of pups you’ve got your eye on before you layout the cash. Here is my list, in order of priority, of items you’ll need to consider:
1. The coil wire. Find out what the gauge and insulation was used. Most pickups use between 42 and 44 gauge wire. The higher the number, the thinner the wire. Thinner wire is great for really packing a bobbin. This approach yields more power, however it does so at the expense of wide ranging tone. Thicker wire means fewer turns around the bobbin and that reduces output, yet it can mean a broader range of tone. The two most common types of insulation are single poly nylon (SPN) and Formvar. SPN usually gives a brighter tone while Formvar sounds warm and vintage.
2. The magnet. Alnico 5 and ceramic are the most common. For a warmer tone, Alnico 5 is the best choice. For heavy metal and hard rock music, ceramic is the way to go.
3. The parts. Some people claim the only way you can get true Gibson PAF tone (whatever that is) is to use parts made from the exact same materials that were found in the originals. I’m referring to the bobbins, baseplates, keeper bars, spacers and pole pieces. There have been test done that both support and debunk this belief, however, it’s becoming nearly impossible to source exact materials anyway since the original PAFs were made 60+ years ago. If someone is claiming they can make an exact copy of a PAF, be suspicious. In the end, I believe the parts have far less to do with determining tone than you’ll be led to believe.
I could go on and mention that how you wire the pickups will have an effect on tone, but that’s outside the pickups basic design. So too is the guitar they’ll be installed in. In truth, from your pick to your ear and everything in between will impact the tone. Hopefully, this post will give you a place to start when planning your guitar’s tone.
If you’ve ever thought about making your own pickups, check out this forum:
http://music-electronics-forum.com/f11/
These guys really know their pickups!
The Legato Has Been Spotted!
Posted by admin in Uncategorized on September 3rd, 2009
While it may be hard to tell, but that looks like Chris holding a partially finished Legato electric guitar. Our photographer tried to get a closer look, but was beaten severely by the reclusive luthier, who used the guitar as a club. “Felt like Alder,” our dazed shutterbug said as he rubbed the lump on his head. “Not heavy enough to be Mahogany.
